Wild Status Large populations exist but are being reduced due to excessive habitat destruction, skin trade and the pet trade. In some collected areas the populations remain stable due to agricultural activities and the created artificial rat populations. In Ghana, Africa the ball python trade is regulated by the government and attention is put into keeping a viable population of adults in the wild to create the next generations for future collection. Gravid females are collected and then returned to the wild by government officials; a percentage of the babies hatched are also being released back into the wild. Treating these animals as a sustainable resource has possibly increased the local population range, and may help to secure the future of these animals in the wild. In other countries, however, ball pythons are collected with absolute disregard for the "overall picture" and impact on wild populations, and are sold as meat or living animals. Adults are now being exported in huge numbers to the Asian markets where they are being used for their meat and blood, Recently there has been interest in butchering & canning the ball pythons in Africa for export as a meat product for the Asian markets. This single activity could bring the demise of large populations, as they can not sustain such losses without wiping out entire areas. Until the government takes notice Benin and Togo are draining themselves dry of their ball python populations. .
Description Ball pythons are robust serpents with a distinctive head & slender neck. Normal body coloration is black with yellow, gold, or brown markings. Pattern may be "broken," banded or reduced in some specimens, and many exhibit varying degrees of broken dorsal striping.
Wild-caught ball pythons are notorious for being difficult to acclimate: these are the animals that give balls their reputation for being terrible feeders. Going with a captive born, well established ball python is a must for making your first ball python experience a good one. These are somewhat shy snakes that fare much better in captivity when acquired from a reliable CB source.
Size Hatchlings approximately 10"+/-. Females average 3'- 5', males average 2' - 3' adult size. This is a species in which mature females are typically distinctly larger than the males. A 5+ foot ball python is considered large, although lengths of 6+ feet have been reported.
Lifespan Ball pythons may live 40 years or more in captivity.
Color Mutations Thus far, there have been more color mutations discovered & created in ball pythons than in any other boid species. These include: T- Albino, T+ Albino, Lavender Albino, Albino Spider, Arctic, Axanthic, Burgundy Hypo, Bumble Bee Spider, Caramel Glow, Cinnamon Pastel, Coffee, Classic Jungle, Clown, Coral Glow, Desert Ghost, Ghost Hypos, Hypermelanistic, Killer Bee Spider, Lemon Pastel, Leucistic, Mojave, Melanistic, Patternless, Pearl, Piebald, Platinum, Snow, Spider, Striped (genetic), Super Pastel, Woma Ball & many more!
Difficulty Level Beginner. Easy, but keeper must have a general knowledge of snake husbandry. Captive bred, well started ball pythons make an excellent first snake for the beginning herpetoculturist.
Enclosure Enclosures can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff" you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there are many different enclosures that work extremely well for ball pythons, including, but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid), melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it very difficult to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet for more information. Juvenile ball pythons seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in a big cage can become overwhelmed & stressed. Fortunately adult ball pythons do not require exceptionally large or elaborate enclosures. A 36" x 18" x 12" enclosure will more than comfortably house an adult ball python. Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other.
Substrate There are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest & easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out with the old, in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more) as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is deadly to reptiles!
Temperatures & Heating Provide your ball python with a basking spot of 88-92 °F and an ambient (background) temperature of 78-80 °F. The ambient temperature should not fall below 75 °F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures at which you are keeping your snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!! A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. Stick the thermometer to the inside of the cage on the cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both sides covered at once. There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns.
Humidity Providing proper humidity for ball pythons is important, but as stated previously too much humidity can be as problematic as too little. First off, let's establish "humidity" as the amount of moisture in the air. To provide your snake with a humidity level of 50% - 60%, you have a couple of options.
1. Use cypress mulch or a similar substrate that can be misted & is mold-resistant. Cypress is good for this as it turns a tan color when dry & a rich brown when wet, giving a visual cue as to when it needs to be dampened again.
2. Make a "humidity box" for your snake. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your python's enclosure so that it can access the box as it pleases.
One of the biggest problems we observe in captive ball pythons is respiratory distress caused by the combination of low ambient humidity, improper ambient temperatures, and a screen-top enclosure which basically allows the environment within the snake's cage to be affected by any external influences in the room in which the snake is kept. Keep in mind that if you have a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other means of keeping moisture from escaping. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. A soggy cage can eventually lead to bacterial & fungal infections and consequently, death.
Lighting Supplemental lighting is not necessary for this species, but if used should run on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12 hours off. Continuous bright, overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially a nocturnal serpent such as this one.
Water Always make fresh, clean water available to your ball python. The size of the water dish is up to you. If it is large enough for the python to crawl into and soak, sooner or later your snake will make the most of the opportunity, and most seem to enjoy a nice soak from time to time. Ensure that the bowl is not too deep for juvenile animals - 1" or so will suffice. Snakes of many species will defecate in their water bowls from time to time, so be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting & a water change when necessary. It is often beneficial to have a spare water bowl for such occasions, so that one may be used while the other is being cleaned.
Accessories The one cage accessory that is beneficial to a happy ball python is a good hide box...maybe even a couple of them. These are secretive snakes that appreciate & utilize a hide spot. Provide one on each end of your python's enclosure so that it doesn't have to choose between temperature & security. Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays, and commercially available hide boxes all work quite well.
Feeding Feed your ball python an appropriately sized rodent weekly. By "appropriately sized" we mean prey items that are no bigger around than the python at its largest point. Ball pythons can eat rats from the time they are young - starting off with rat pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation. Ball pythons can be converted to feeding on frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents (see Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended with ANY snake. Ball pythons are well-known for going on hunger strikes at certain times throughout the year, particularly in the winter months. Be prepared for the possibility of your snake going off feed, and keep an observant eye on the snake's overall condition and body weight. This is typically nothing to worry about with healthy, well established pythons, although it can be extremely frustrating to the keeper. If your snake is healthy continue your husbandry routine as usual, yet reduce the amount of handling the snake receives to a minimum. Offer your ball python food every 10-14 days until interested in eating again, as the snake will eventually "turn back on" and resume feeding normally.
Maintenance Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey items are present, remove them as soon as possible. Clean & disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using a 5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your snake.
Basic Reproductive Info Ball pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding activity. Females shed 14-20+ days after ovulation; eggs are usually laid within 30 days of post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for balls typically ranges from 4 - 12 eggs. At an Incubation temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal), these eggs take an average of 60 days to hatch
Notes/Comments Ball pythons are often regarded as the most popular pet python in herpetoculture, and with their docile nature & low maintenance requirements it is easy to see why. Acquiring captive bred specimens will help ensure a successful snakekeeping experience. The myriad color morphs that are now available, combined with the fact that normal ball pythons are quite attractive in their own right, truly make this species a snake for both novice and advanced herpetoculturist alike.
Wild Status Large populations exist but are being reduced due to excessive habitat destruction, skin trade and the pet trade. In some collected areas the populations remain stable due to agricultural activities and the created artificial rat populations. In Ghana, Africa the ball python trade is regulated by the government and attention is put into keeping a viable population of adults in the wild to create the next generations for future collection. Gravid females are collected and then returned to the wild by government officials; a percentage of the babies hatched are also being released back into the wild. Treating these animals as a sustainable resource has possibly increased the local population range, and may help to secure the future of these animals in the wild. In other countries, however, ball pythons are collected with absolute disregard for the "overall picture" and impact on wild populations, and are sold as meat or living animals. Adults are now being exported in huge numbers to the Asian markets where they are being used for their meat and blood, Recently there has been interest in butchering & canning the ball pythons in Africa for export as a meat product for the Asian markets. This single activity could bring the demise of large populations, as they can not sustain such losses without wiping out entire areas. Until the government takes notice Benin and Togo are draining themselves dry of their ball python populations. .
Description Ball pythons are robust serpents with a distinctive head & slender neck. Normal body coloration is black with yellow, gold, or brown markings. Pattern may be "broken," banded or reduced in some specimens, and many exhibit varying degrees of broken dorsal striping.
Wild-caught ball pythons are notorious for being difficult to acclimate: these are the animals that give balls their reputation for being terrible feeders. Going with a captive born, well established ball python is a must for making your first ball python experience a good one. These are somewhat shy snakes that fare much better in captivity when acquired from a reliable CB source.
Size Hatchlings approximately 10"+/-. Females average 3'- 5', males average 2' - 3' adult size. This is a species in which mature females are typically distinctly larger than the males. A 5+ foot ball python is considered large, although lengths of 6+ feet have been reported.
Lifespan Ball pythons may live 40 years or more in captivity.
Color Mutations Thus far, there have been more color mutations discovered & created in ball pythons than in any other boid species. These include: T- Albino, T+ Albino, Lavender Albino, Albino Spider, Arctic, Axanthic, Burgundy Hypo, Bumble Bee Spider, Caramel Glow, Cinnamon Pastel, Coffee, Classic Jungle, Clown, Coral Glow, Desert Ghost, Ghost Hypos, Hypermelanistic, Killer Bee Spider, Lemon Pastel, Leucistic, Mojave, Melanistic, Patternless, Pearl, Piebald, Platinum, Snow, Spider, Striped (genetic), Super Pastel, Woma Ball & many more!
C A P T I V E M A I N T E N A N C E G U I D E L I N E S
Difficulty Level Beginner. Easy, but keeper must have a general knowledge of snake husbandry. Captive bred, well started ball pythons make an excellent first snake for the beginning herpetoculturist.
Enclosure Enclosures can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff" you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there are many different enclosures that work extremely well for ball pythons, including, but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid), melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it very difficult to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet for more information. Juvenile ball pythons seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in a big cage can become overwhelmed & stressed. Fortunately adult ball pythons do not require exceptionally large or elaborate enclosures. A 36" x 18" x 12" enclosure will more than comfortably house an adult ball python. Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other.
Substrate There are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest & easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out with the old, in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more) as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is deadly to reptiles!
Temperatures & Heating Provide your ball python with a basking spot of 88-92 °F and an ambient (background) temperature of 78-80 °F. The ambient temperature should not fall below 75 °F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures at which you are keeping your snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!! A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. Stick the thermometer to the inside of the cage on the cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both sides covered at once. There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns.
Humidity Providing proper humidity for ball pythons is important, but as stated previously too much humidity can be as problematic as too little. First off, let's establish "humidity" as the amount of moisture in the air. To provide your snake with a humidity level of 50% - 60%, you have a couple of options.
1. Use cypress mulch or a similar substrate that can be misted & is mold-resistant. Cypress is good for this as it turns a tan color when dry & a rich brown when wet, giving a visual cue as to when it needs to be dampened again.
2. Make a "humidity box" for your snake. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your python's enclosure so that it can access the box as it pleases.
One of the biggest problems we observe in captive ball pythons is respiratory distress caused by the combination of low ambient humidity, improper ambient temperatures, and a screen-top enclosure which basically allows the environment within the snake's cage to be affected by any external influences in the room in which the snake is kept. Keep in mind that if you have a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other means of keeping moisture from escaping. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. A soggy cage can eventually lead to bacterial & fungal infections and consequently, death.
Lighting Supplemental lighting is not necessary for this species, but if used should run on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12 hours off. Continuous bright, overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially a nocturnal serpent such as this one.
Water Always make fresh, clean water available to your ball python. The size of the water dish is up to you. If it is large enough for the python to crawl into and soak, sooner or later your snake will make the most of the opportunity, and most seem to enjoy a nice soak from time to time. Ensure that the bowl is not too deep for juvenile animals - 1" or so will suffice. Snakes of many species will defecate in their water bowls from time to time, so be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting & a water change when necessary. It is often beneficial to have a spare water bowl for such occasions, so that one may be used while the other is being cleaned.
Accessories The one cage accessory that is beneficial to a happy ball python is a good hide box...maybe even a couple of them. These are secretive snakes that appreciate & utilize a hide spot. Provide one on each end of your python's enclosure so that it doesn't have to choose between temperature & security. Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays, and commercially available hide boxes all work quite well.
Feeding Feed your ball python an appropriately sized rodent weekly. By "appropriately sized" we mean prey items that are no bigger around than the python at its largest point. Ball pythons can eat rats from the time they are young - starting off with rat pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation. Ball pythons can be converted to feeding on frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents (see Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended with ANY snake. Ball pythons are well-known for going on hunger strikes at certain times throughout the year, particularly in the winter months. Be prepared for the possibility of your snake going off feed, and keep an observant eye on the snake's overall condition and body weight. This is typically nothing to worry about with healthy, well established pythons, although it can be extremely frustrating to the keeper. If your snake is healthy continue your husbandry routine as usual, yet reduce the amount of handling the snake receives to a minimum. Offer your ball python food every 10-14 days until interested in eating again, as the snake will eventually "turn back on" and resume feeding normally.
Maintenance Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey items are present, remove them as soon as possible. Clean & disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using a 5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your snake.
B A S I C R E P R O D U C T I V E I N F O
Ball pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding activity. Females shed 14-20+ days after ovulation; eggs are usually laid within 30 days of post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for balls typically ranges from 4 - 12 eggs. At an Incubation temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal), these eggs take an average of 60 days to hatch
N O T E S / C O M M E N T S
Ball pythons are often regarded as the most popular pet python in herpetoculture, and with their docile nature & low maintenance requirements it is easy to see why. Acquiring captive bred specimens will help ensure a successful snakekeeping experience. The myriad color morphs that are now available, combined with the fact that normal ball pythons are quite attractive in their own right, truly make this species a snake for both novice and advanced herpetoculturist alike.
Vildtstatus Store populationer forekommer men reduceres til stadighed pga. omfattende ødelæggelser af dens naturlige levesteder, og pga. dens handelsværdi som skind og som kæledyr. I nogle udvalgte områder forbliver populationerne stabile grundet landbrugsaktiviteter og de dermed kunstigt opståede rottepopulationer. I Ghana i Afrika reguleres handelen med kongepytonen af regeringen og der er opmærksomhed på at opretholde en sund bestand af voksne individer i naturen for at grundlægge de næste generationer, for en fremtidig indfangning. Gravide hun-slanger indsamles og genudsættes i naturen af regeringsansatte; en vis procentdel af de nyfødte sættes også ud i naturen. Det har sandsynligvis forøget den lokale populations størrelse, at man har behandlet disse dyr som en vedvarende ressource og hjælper grangiveligt med til at sikre dyrene beståen i naturen. Voksne eksemplarer eksporteres nu i stort antal til de asiatiske markeder hvor de er eftertragtede for deres kød og blod. Der har i Afrika for nylig været en interesse i at slagte kongepytonen for at eksportere dem som dåsemad til de asiatiske markeder. Denne enkelte aktivitet vil kunne betyde dødsstødet for store bestande, da de ikke kan modstå sådanne tab, men vil tilintetgøres i store områder. Indtil regeringen vil reagere, vil Benin og Togo dræne dem selv for deres kongepyton-bestande.
Beskrivelse Kongepytoner er hårdføre slanger med et distinkt hoved og en slank nakke. Den normale kropsfarve er sort med gule, gyldne eller brune aftegninger. Mønsteret kan være brudt, sammenknyttet eller reduceret i nogle eksemplarer og mange udviser varierende grad af brudte rygstriber.
Vildtfangede kongepytoner er kendte for at være svære at akklimatisere: det er disse der har givet kongepytonerne deres ry for at være nogle værre ædedolke. At have en i fangenskab født og veletableret kongepyton er et must for at sikre at ens første erfaring med kongepytoner bliver vellykket. Disse er sky slanger som trives meget bedre i fangenskab, når de er anskaffet fra en pålidelig CB-kilde.
Størrelse [Oversætterens note: Bemærk at (dobbelt-citationstegn ’’) er inch. og det britisk-amerikanske længdemål svarende til 25,4 mm, dvs. en tolvtedel af 1 foot (30,48 cm) (angivet ved enkelt-citationstegn ’).]
Unger er ca. 10’’ +/- Som voksne bliver hunner gennemsnitligt 3’-5’, hannerne 2’-3’. Dette er en art hvor den voksne hun typisk er markant større end hannen. En 5’+ kongepyton betragtes som stor, skønt længder på over 6’ er observeret.
Alder Kongepytoner lever i 40 år eller mere i fangenskab.
Farveforekomster Der er indtil videre set flere farvevariationer hos kongepytoner end hos nogle andre Boidae arter. Disse indbefatter: T- Albino, T+ Albino, Lavender Albino, Albino Spider, Arctic, Axanthic, Burgundy Hypo, Bumble Bee Spider, Caramel Glow, Cinnamon Pastel, Coffee, Classic Jungle, Clown, Coral Glow, Desert Ghost, Ghost Hypos, Hypermelanistic, Killer Bee Spider, Lemon Pastel, Leucistic, Mojave, Melanistic, Patternless, Pearl, Piebald, Platinum, Snow, Spider, Striped (genetic), Super Pastel, Woma Ball og mange flere.
R E T N I N G S L I N I E R F O R P A S N I N G I F A N G E N S K A B
Sværhedsgrad En nem slange for begynderen, men ejeren skal have en generel viden om slangehold. Kongepytoner, avlet i fangenskab og som har fået en god start er et glimrende valg som en første slange for en slangeelsker.
Bur Bure kan være så simple eller gennemførte, som man er i stand til at holde dem. Husk at jo mere man fylder buret med, jo mere skal man gøre rent og desinficere regelmæssigt. I denne forbindelse skal det nævnes, at der er mange forskellige bure, der fungerer virkelig fint for kongepytoner, inkluderende, men ikke begrænset til: plastik-sweater-bokse (Rubbermaid), melamin racks, Freedom Breeder bure og alle kommercielt tilgængelige plastik-type reptilbure (dvs. dem fra Vision Herp og andre lignende fabrikanter). Glas akvarier og -tanke er passende; men husk på at screen-lågene på sådanne kan gøre det meget svært at opretholde den rette fugtighed. Unge tæppepytoner lader til at holde af mindre bure, som giver dem større tryghed; en lille slange i et stort bur kan blive overvældet og stresset. Heldigvis kræver voksne kongepytoner ikke specielt store eller voldsomt udstyrede bure. Burstørrelser på 36"x18"x12" vil uden problemer kunne fungere fint som bolig for en voksen kongepyton. Husk, at ALLE bure skal have en velafstemt temperaturvariation, som slangen kan benytte, med et varmt sted I den ene ende og et køligere område I den anden ende.
Bunddække/underlag Der findes relativt få bunddækker, der virker godt. Avispapir er det billigste og letteste mht. rengøring og desinficering: ”ud med det gamle og ind med noget nyt!” Cypres dække er godt til at kontrollere fugtigheden, men husk at en for høj fugtighed kan være lige så skadelig (hvis ikke mere skadelig!) end for lidt. Brug ALDRIG bunddække af ceder, da dette træ er DØDELIGT for reptiler.
Temperatur og varme Sørg for at slangen har et lettere fordybet, kurveformet varmt sted (31-33½ grader Celcius, som svarer til 88-92 grader Fahrenheit!) , medens den generelle rumtemperatur skal være 25½-27 grader Celcius (78-80 °F). Rumtemperaturen må ikke falde under de 24 grader Celcius. Det er absolut livsnødvendigt med SIKKERHED at kende temperaturen, som du holder din(e) slange(r) ved. GÆT ALDRIG! En god måde at overvåge temperaturerne på, er med et digitalt indendørs/udendørs termometer. Placer termometeret i den kolde ende og placer føleren i den varme ende; på den måde kan temperaturen overvåges begge steder samtidig. Der er flere måder at varme buret op på: undervarmemåtter, keramiske varmelegemer, varmelamper (både alm. dagpærer og røde natpærer) er nogle muligheder. Med varmelegemer og varmelamper er det yderst vigtigt at holde øje med fugtigheden i buret, især hvis buret er forsynet med et screen-låg, da begge disse ting vil udtørre luften hurtigt. Brug termostater, reostater(som er en variabel modstand) og/eller timere til at kontrollere varmekilderne. Undlad at bruge store varme sten, idet de ofte varmes meget uens op, hvilket kan give forbrændinger.
Fugtighed En passende fugtighed er vigtigt, men som før sagt kan for meget fugtighed være lige så problematisk som for lidt fugtighed. Fugtighed er som begreb mængden af vanddamp i luften. For at kunne give slangen en luftfugtighed på 50 % - 60 %, er der flere muligheder:
1. Brug et cypres dække eller et lignende underlag, som kan tågesprøjtes med vand og som ikke mugner. Cypres er godt til dette formål, da det skifter farve alt efter om det er tørt eller vådt. Tørt er det lys brunt og vådt er det mørkt brunt. På den måde er det nemt at se om det trænger til at oversprøjtes.
2. Lav en fugtboks til slangen. Denne består af en plastikkasse foret med fugtet tørvemos (overvej en godt opvredet vaskeklud til at justere fugtigheden med), et hul skåret i toppen eller i siden; kassen sættes i buret så slangen kan benytte fugtboksen når den har lyst.
Et af de største problemer man oplever med kongepytoner i fangenskab er åndedrætsnød forårsaget af en kombination af lav generel fugtighed, forkert generel temperatur i buret, sammen med et bur med screen-låg, som tillader miljøet inde i buret at blive påvirket af udefra kommende forstyrrelser fra det lokale, hvor slangen holdes.
Husk på, at hvis du har screen-låg på buret, så ønsker du måske at dække det helt eller delvist med plastik, et håndklæde eller med noget andet for at holde på fugtigheden. Her er det også yderst vigtigt med en passende og pålidelig rumtemperatur i buret (så er vi tilbage til termometeret igen), idet varm luft kan indeholde mere vanddamp end kold luft. Du ønsker at holde buret fugtigt og IKKE vådt. Et gennemblødt bur kan føre til en bakteriel- eller svampeinfektion, som i sidste ende kan medføre slangens død!
Lys Supplerende lys er ikke nødvendigt for denne art, men hvis man bruger det, skal det køre på en 12/12 time cyklisk basis, 12 timer tændt og 12 timer slukket. Vedvarende stærkt ovenlys er belastende for slanger, især for en natslange som denne.
Vand Lad altid din tæppepyton have adgang til friskt rent vand. Størrelsen på vandskålen kan man selv bestemme. Hvis den er stor nok, vil slangen imidlertid før eller senere benytte sig af muligheden for at kravle op i den; de fleste lader til at nyde at få et bad i ny og næ. Vær sikker på at skålen ikke er for dyb for unge dyr. En tomme eller lignende vil være fint. Mange slangearter vil lave afføring og rense sig i vandet, så man skal være forberedt på rengøring, desinficering og skifte vand, når det er nødvendigt. Det kan være en god ide at have en reserveskål til disse lejligheder, så den ene kan være i brug, medens den anden gøres ren.
Tilbehør Det vigtigste tilbehør som vil glæde kongepytonen meget, er en eller flere bokse, hvor den kan skjule sig. Kongepytonen er en sky (”hemmelighedsfuld”) slange, som sætter pris på et skjulested. Placer et skjulested i begge ender af buret, så slangen ikke kommer ud for at skulle vælge imellem temperatur og skjulested. Blomsterpotter, plastik blomsterkasser og kommercielle skjulbokse vil alle fungere fint.
Fodring Giv kongepytonen en passende størrelse gnaver ugentligt. Med ”passende” menes byttedyr, som ikke er større end slangen er på dens tykkeste sted. Kongepytoner, kan, allerede fra de er små, spise rotter - begyndende med helt unge rotteunger og små unge ”kravlere” til yngre slanger og gradvis øge størrelsen som slangen vokser til. Lad slangen være i fred i mindst et døgn efter at den har spist, det kan føre til opgylpning. Kongepytoner kan vænnes til at blive fodret med optøede frosne eller allerede dræbte gnavere. Efterlad ALDRIG en levende gnaver uden opsyn hos en nogen slange, ligegyldigt hvilken art slange. Kongepytoner er kendt for at gå i ”sultestrejke” på visse tidspunkter i løbet af året, især i vintermånederne. Vær forberedt når slangen går fra foderet, og hold godt øje med slangens generelle velbefindende samt dens vægt. Typisk er det ikke noget man behøver bekymre sig om med veletablerede pytoner, selvom det kan være frustrerende for ejeren. Fortsæt blot den sædvanlige anden pasning og reducér i denne periode omgangen med slangen til et minimum. Tilbyd kongepytonen mad hver 10-14. dag indtil den bliver interesseret i at spise igen, når den vender tilbage til sit ”gamle jeg og genoptager sin normale fodring.
Vedligeholdelse Pletrengør slangens bur når nødvendigt. Når fæces/urin/ikke spiste byttedyr er til stede, da fjern det så hurtigt som muligt. Rengør og desinficer vandskålen hver uge. Afhængig af burtypen, fjern al bunddække og inventar og desinficer det fuldstændigt med en 5 % blegemiddelopløsning ca. én gang om måneden. Rens det ordentligt og lad det tørre fuldstændigt, før du sætter inventaret og slangen tilbage.
B A S A L I N F O R M A T I O N O M F O R P L A N T N I N G
Kongepytoner når seksuel modenhed i en alder af 18 mdr. - 4 år. Yngleperioden i fangenskab ligger typisk fra november til marts. Stop al fodring i denne periode. Dyrene skal være ved virkelig godt helbred før nogen forsøg på forplantning forsøges. Ynglen kan fremmes ved at reducere dagtimernes lyse periode til 8-10 timer og sænke temperaturen om natten til omkring 23½-24½ grader Celcius (74-76 F). Introducér hunnen i hannens bur. Fugt dyrene med vand; det kan forstærke parringsaktiviteterne. Hunnen bløder 14-20+ dage efter ægløsningen; æggene lægges sædvanligvis indenfor 30 dage efter ”efter-ægløsning-blødningen”. Kuldstørrelsen for kongepytoner ligger typisk på 4-12 æg. Ved en optimal inkubationstemperatur på 31-32½ Celcius (88-90 F), tager det gennemsnitligt 60 dage at udklække dem.
N O T E R / K O M M E N T A R E R
Kongepytoner anses ofte i slangekredse for den mest populære kæledyrspyton, og med deres føjelige natur og få pasningskrav er det let at forstå hvorfor. Anskaffer man sig et eksemplar født i fangenskab, vil det hjælpe godt til med at sikre at slangeholdet bliver en succesfuld oplevelse. Mylderet af farvevariationer som nu er tilgængelige, kombineret med det faktum at normale kongepytoner er meget attraktive i sig selv, gør simpelthen denne art velegnet for både novicen og den slangekyndige.
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